Well, after the panoramic views of Colca Canyon, our next adventure was an all night bus ride that would put us in Nasca at 7am so that we could get an early start on seeing the ever popular Nasca lines.
I should note that we were still ever in debt to our designated guides, Alberto and Yvone and her 1 year old baby and our driver Pedro, who had made all of our arrangements from Cuzco to the hostels and reservations for Colca Canyon also booked our bus to Nasca and set us up with plane tickets to see the Nasca Lines. We wouldn't have made it without them.
Well they had taken us as far as they could go, but kind as they are, they set us up with bus tickets to Nasca and arranged to have a guide meet us at the bus station to take us to the airport where our plane tickets to see the Nasca lines would be awaiting our arrival. We paid our wonderful guides the money and threw in a large tip for all their trouble and were on our way.
All was according to plan as we slept well on the bus and even arrived a little early in Nasca. We grabbed our stuff and immediately began looking for the EMILY CARLSEN sign held by an unknown guide that we had become so accustomed to seeing. Nothing. Given that we were a bit early, nothing seemed to amiss, so we waited. 7am...nothing...730 nothing...8am nothing...830 nothing...
At this point the light bulb began to go off in a few of our heads, but it was a brief flicker. We had Alberto's card so we figured, lets give him a jingle. After figuring out how to work the public phones, thanks to a taxi driver who was overly anxious to help, we finally got through to Alberto's cell...a disconnected number. So we tried the number of an agency that Alberto worked for but they did not seem to understand what was going on.
The light bulb was beginning to glow a bit brighter. Still, wanting to believe the best, Mandy and I departed with the cabby who drove us to a square where you could rent cell phones. He rented one for us and tried the calls again. Still no luck. he then took us to his friends hostel because his friend was fluent in English and may be able to help. The friend got through to the agency and explained the problem. The agency told us to go back to the bus station and someone would be there soon. PROBLEM SOLVED!
Another hour at the bus station and the same taxi driver stopped by again to find us all standing, eagerly awaiting a guide that we all now knew, would never show. Our last chance was to have him take us to the airport and maybe we would find something booked in our name....no luck. So back to the bus station where he found a woman, Rosa and her husband George (of the jungle...literally) and their baby dominicke. All three were quite helpful. After an hour of haggling with the agency it became final...We had been had! A bunch of American suckers had been taken down by the oldest con in the book.
Fortunately, Rosa helped us book new tickets to see the lines and her husband and the cabby became our guides. We saw the Nasca Lines, which were unbelievable, the local cemetery and even got special instructions on how to make pottery and mine for minerals.
Bus Trip from Arequipa to Nasca....60 Soles...we paid 180
Plane ticket to see the Nasca Lines....80 US dollars
Second plane ticket to see the Nasca Lines...80 US dollars
Getting taken by a woman and her one year old baby in Peru....Priceless
After that we headed off to Huachachina (sp) for some sand boaring and dune buggy riding. Our driver was a bit loco and took us for a pretty exciting ride. The dunes were amazing and we had so much fun that we forgot all about the fact that we had been played just a day earlier.
We are now in Lima for our final stint...heading to the black market to see what kind of goods we can smuggle back for you all! Home at midnight...see you all soon!
Mike
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Monday, June 22, 2009
Lake T and Colca Canyon
Alright friends, I guess it´s my turn to update this thing. Emily here, alive and well. After we survived the bridge incident we indeed made it safe to Puno at 3:15 am where we woke up at 6am to see the one and only Lake Titicaca!! Yes, we all remember learning about this lake in the third grade and giggling over its name- well folks we got to see it in person.
The lake itself was enormous. As we departed from the dock it look more like an ocean then a lake. Beyond the horizon one could barely make out Bolivia and the snowy mountains in the distance. Our first stop was the floating islands, where the native Uros colony lived amongst the floating reeds. In small tents they habitated in a colony of 8 families where they greeted us with songs and smiles. The children were adorable and malled Mandy when she brought out some Coca candy. After taking a ride on a raft built of reeds we were off to a trout lunch on another island on the lake, Tranquille. Here we were entertained with dancing and to my surprise I was picked out of the crowd by a 4 year old and pulled to the pavilion to join the festivities. I have to admit, I bust out a few signature moves, haha, jk. After lunch we walked up and over the other side of the island checking out some spectacular views. Overall Lake T was better than we expected and worth the near death experience :).
Onto Colca Canyon..... that night we headed toward Chavay. After 2 days of no showers we were once again up at the crack of dawn 6am. Michelle, the newest member of the polar bear club, took a glacier water shower as I (in 17 degree weather) ran around in my long underwear up and down the stairs, outside the front of the hostal, frantically looking for the woman to turn on our hot water. I finally found her as we were all happy to take out room temperature showers.
Colca Canyon was like a scene straight out of the movie, ¨The Rescuers Down Under¨. Twice as deep as the Grand Canyon and 4th deepest in the world! As the condors flew overhead we watched in awe as our guide explained to us the importance of this sacred bird in the Inca´s beliefs. After a few more panoramic views we were off and running once again, this time on our way to Arequipa.... adios until next time.
The lake itself was enormous. As we departed from the dock it look more like an ocean then a lake. Beyond the horizon one could barely make out Bolivia and the snowy mountains in the distance. Our first stop was the floating islands, where the native Uros colony lived amongst the floating reeds. In small tents they habitated in a colony of 8 families where they greeted us with songs and smiles. The children were adorable and malled Mandy when she brought out some Coca candy. After taking a ride on a raft built of reeds we were off to a trout lunch on another island on the lake, Tranquille. Here we were entertained with dancing and to my surprise I was picked out of the crowd by a 4 year old and pulled to the pavilion to join the festivities. I have to admit, I bust out a few signature moves, haha, jk. After lunch we walked up and over the other side of the island checking out some spectacular views. Overall Lake T was better than we expected and worth the near death experience :).
Onto Colca Canyon..... that night we headed toward Chavay. After 2 days of no showers we were once again up at the crack of dawn 6am. Michelle, the newest member of the polar bear club, took a glacier water shower as I (in 17 degree weather) ran around in my long underwear up and down the stairs, outside the front of the hostal, frantically looking for the woman to turn on our hot water. I finally found her as we were all happy to take out room temperature showers.
Colca Canyon was like a scene straight out of the movie, ¨The Rescuers Down Under¨. Twice as deep as the Grand Canyon and 4th deepest in the world! As the condors flew overhead we watched in awe as our guide explained to us the importance of this sacred bird in the Inca´s beliefs. After a few more panoramic views we were off and running once again, this time on our way to Arequipa.... adios until next time.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
indiana jones and the hol(e)y bridge of death
well crew, we last left you after our rafting venture through the peruvian rapids, before our trek up to puno for lake titicaca. alberto, the man, set us up with our own private van (high roller!) to take to puno, because buses werent going through due to the strike.
while this may seem highly posh and totes magotes bomb digs chilltastic, i assure you, dear friends, that you would be incorrect. the protesters closed off most of the main roads of peru, and we were forced to take the back roads. i`m thinking our driver must be a professional off roader in his downtime, because you know those huge jumps monster trucks make? thats what we did in our van. for 11.5 hrs. the off-roading combined with the constant road blocks of boulders made our ride feel like mario kart come to life.
despite all of this, things were good! we were making our way to south america`s 2nd biggest lake! then things got a little too indiana jones. we had to make our way over the same bridge we had to pass to raft, and the protest was still raging. with people on both sides of us, our driver attempted to push through and over. things got a little out of control when the planks of the bridge were being pulled out in front of us, and our back tire fell through the bridge. twice. but fear not! we were ready. thanks to that worst case scenario book everyone flips through in passing at urban outfitters, we were prepared to bust open the windows and the doors, were we to fall through! seatbelts were off in a flash. luckily, i didnt come to that. we hopped our of the van and walked across the bridge, while our driver managed to get our full van back on the bridge.
we continued for another million hours, paying off protesters to move their roadblocks, and fixing (rather watching our driver fix) flat tires. the good thing is that we made it to puno unharmed, and when we were outside the fix the flat, you`ve never seen a brighter or clearer picture of that milky way galaxy.
TB out.
while this may seem highly posh and totes magotes bomb digs chilltastic, i assure you, dear friends, that you would be incorrect. the protesters closed off most of the main roads of peru, and we were forced to take the back roads. i`m thinking our driver must be a professional off roader in his downtime, because you know those huge jumps monster trucks make? thats what we did in our van. for 11.5 hrs. the off-roading combined with the constant road blocks of boulders made our ride feel like mario kart come to life.
despite all of this, things were good! we were making our way to south america`s 2nd biggest lake! then things got a little too indiana jones. we had to make our way over the same bridge we had to pass to raft, and the protest was still raging. with people on both sides of us, our driver attempted to push through and over. things got a little out of control when the planks of the bridge were being pulled out in front of us, and our back tire fell through the bridge. twice. but fear not! we were ready. thanks to that worst case scenario book everyone flips through in passing at urban outfitters, we were prepared to bust open the windows and the doors, were we to fall through! seatbelts were off in a flash. luckily, i didnt come to that. we hopped our of the van and walked across the bridge, while our driver managed to get our full van back on the bridge.
we continued for another million hours, paying off protesters to move their roadblocks, and fixing (rather watching our driver fix) flat tires. the good thing is that we made it to puno unharmed, and when we were outside the fix the flat, you`ve never seen a brighter or clearer picture of that milky way galaxy.
TB out.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Her name was rio...
After returning from Machu Piccu we decided to book a river rafting trip. For only $45 each we were able to raft down the Urabamba river in class 1, 2, and 3 rapids. On the way to the river we were slowed down a bit by locals who had filled the roadways with boulders in an attempt to show their protest for the way the government is treating them. Apparently (from what we could gather through broken conversations) the Peruvian Government has sold a large amount of land in the jungle that was inhabited by native Peruvians. They sold the land off to some big businesses who are now forcing the natives off their land and not even providing them the opportunity to work in the factories.
Anyhow, after moving some boulders and eventually having to ask for permission to pass, we were at the bank of the river. All six (well 5.5 really as Emily was just along for the ride with her arm in a sling) of us jumped in the same boat with our guide Renee and we were off. All and all the ride was tame but fun nonetheless. Nobody fell out and Mandy even got to play guide and lead us down the river for a bit by telling us when and how to paddle (we ended up spinning in circles).
After the ride the guides cooked us a great lunch and we were on our way home (stopping occasionally to move boulders). Our travel plans to Puno looked to be in jeopardy as the travel agent informed us that the bus could not navigate the roads due to the protesters. Fortunately he offered to hire a private driver for us (at no extra cost) so in the morning we depart for Puno.
Mike
Anyhow, after moving some boulders and eventually having to ask for permission to pass, we were at the bank of the river. All six (well 5.5 really as Emily was just along for the ride with her arm in a sling) of us jumped in the same boat with our guide Renee and we were off. All and all the ride was tame but fun nonetheless. Nobody fell out and Mandy even got to play guide and lead us down the river for a bit by telling us when and how to paddle (we ended up spinning in circles).
After the ride the guides cooked us a great lunch and we were on our way home (stopping occasionally to move boulders). Our travel plans to Puno looked to be in jeopardy as the travel agent informed us that the bus could not navigate the roads due to the protesters. Fortunately he offered to hire a private driver for us (at no extra cost) so in the morning we depart for Puno.
Mike
13,345,634,264,674,349 steps to the promiseland
whats crackin guys, tanya here. the boss on this trip (you know who you are) has sat me in this chair and forced me against my will to regale in our biggest adventure yet, the reason why we chose peru to begin with, world wonder number 1, machu picchu.
to pick up where michelle left off, we trained it over to aguas calientes to be picked up by a kindly woman holding up a sign for emily (who is apparently a celebrity now that she has signs held up for her left and right). we walked approximately two feet to our hotel, where we proceeded to meet with our guide, his name is pedro, and his guide group will be called pedro, and then pass out in preparation for our 4:30 a.m. wake up call. upon awaking (late, mind you), we hauled over to the bus station, as quickly as 6 people could on 4 hrs of sleep and only instant coffee as a caffiene stimulant.
we beat the sun up to machu picchu and barely made the group of 400 who go up to winu picchu (the worlds best stairmaster) and overlook machu picchu and the andes mountains. to be honest, machu picchu before sunrise was breathtaking, and nothing i say here can speak highly enough of the spectacular view we witnessed as the sun rose over the mountains and onto the city.
after we toured the ruins, we began the 1 hour climb up to winu picchu that small children and grandmas with hip replacements can make without any problems. NOT. let me tell you that all 6 of us are in relatively good physical condition, and i think a part of my soul died on that climb and is stuck on the mountain forever. we manage to seriously throw down and make it up in 40 minutes, and our time up there made this whole trip worth it on its own. Has anyone heard that sigur ros song, staralfur? (april? zach? help a brother out) i think that song is the only way i can explain what it felt like to be up there. we had a 360 degree view of the andes mountains with the city of machu picchu below us. it was so magnificent, i was seriously tempted to jump off and see if i could fly. i managed to talk myself out of that one. look at the fotos em posted, but even they won't do it justice. for cereal.
we made our way back down from the cloud forest, and for me, i left with my spirit lighter and my heart fuller.
to pick up where michelle left off, we trained it over to aguas calientes to be picked up by a kindly woman holding up a sign for emily (who is apparently a celebrity now that she has signs held up for her left and right). we walked approximately two feet to our hotel, where we proceeded to meet with our guide, his name is pedro, and his guide group will be called pedro, and then pass out in preparation for our 4:30 a.m. wake up call. upon awaking (late, mind you), we hauled over to the bus station, as quickly as 6 people could on 4 hrs of sleep and only instant coffee as a caffiene stimulant.
we beat the sun up to machu picchu and barely made the group of 400 who go up to winu picchu (the worlds best stairmaster) and overlook machu picchu and the andes mountains. to be honest, machu picchu before sunrise was breathtaking, and nothing i say here can speak highly enough of the spectacular view we witnessed as the sun rose over the mountains and onto the city.
after we toured the ruins, we began the 1 hour climb up to winu picchu that small children and grandmas with hip replacements can make without any problems. NOT. let me tell you that all 6 of us are in relatively good physical condition, and i think a part of my soul died on that climb and is stuck on the mountain forever. we manage to seriously throw down and make it up in 40 minutes, and our time up there made this whole trip worth it on its own. Has anyone heard that sigur ros song, staralfur? (april? zach? help a brother out) i think that song is the only way i can explain what it felt like to be up there. we had a 360 degree view of the andes mountains with the city of machu picchu below us. it was so magnificent, i was seriously tempted to jump off and see if i could fly. i managed to talk myself out of that one. look at the fotos em posted, but even they won't do it justice. for cereal.
we made our way back down from the cloud forest, and for me, i left with my spirit lighter and my heart fuller.
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